Diesel/Kerosene Forced Air Torpedo Heater 125,000 BTU

All of our kerosene heater units come with a limited one-year warranty.

Click the “Service Centers” tab under “Customer Service” to see a list of Authorized Service Centers in your area.

Try turning your air pressure up 1 PSI and try to start again. Also be sure after running a couple minutes that the nose cone is cherry red without any flames coming out. If it is not cherry red turn your air pressure up a 1/2 PSI or until the nose cone glows red. If heater is running at correct air pressure and still shutting off, then a slight adjustment to the High Temperature Switch Bracket may be required. Bending the bracket slightly away from the rear of the combustion chamber will decrease the sensitivity of the switch.

The model number can either be found on the Upper Shell of the heater (below the brand name), and also can be found to the left of Power Switch on the Right Side Cover. It is also located on the outside of the heater’s carton by the UPC.

The serial number is found on the right side cover.

Our Kerosene forced-air heaters will run on multiple fuels such as K-1 kerosene, JP8/JetA, #1 and #2 fuel oil, or #1 and #2 diesel oil. Please be advised that because of the additives contained in diesel fuel, additional ventilation will be required to disperse the added contaminants produced. Additional maintenance to the heater will also be required.

The chart below will help you with minimum clearances from combustibles

Top Sides Front
HS-45-KFA 4 ft. 4 ft. 8 ft.
HS-70T-KFA 4 ft. 4 ft. 8 ft.
HS-125T-KFA 4 ft. 4 ft. 8 ft.
HS-175T-KFA 4 ft. 4 ft. 8 ft.
HS-215T-KFA 4 ft. 4 ft. 10 ft.

The heater uses a photocell to “see” the flame in the combustion chamber. Should the flame extinguish, the sensor will stop electrical current, and the heater will shut off.

The heater will automatically shut off, and fuel will stop being pumped to the combustion chamber.

Kerosene breaks down over time. Never use kerosene that has been stored from one season to the next. Never store leftover kerosene over the summer. Using old fuel can damage your heater.

The standard is to always provide a fresh air opening in the heated space of at least 3 square feet (2,800 sq. cm.) for each 100,000 BTU/Hr of heater output. For example, a HS-125T-KFA (125,000 BTUs/Hr) heater will require:

• A two car garage door open 6 inches, or
• A single-car garage door open 9 inches, or
• Two 32” (thirty two inch) wide windows to be open 15 inches.

Yes you can use extension cords with your heater. Please use the right size extension cord as shown below:

• 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 meters), use 18 AWG conductor wire.
• 11 to 100 feet (3.4 to 30.4 meters), use 16 AWG conductor wire.
• 101 to 200 feet (30.8 to 61 meters), use 14 AWG conductor wire.

Our kerosene heaters do operate with diesel fuel, but usually when the temperature is below 30° F, winterized diesel additives are needed to keep the diesel’s viscosity. Typical Diesel (also known as #2 Diesel or #2 Fuel Oil) will cloud from 20°F (-7°C) to as high as 40°F (4°C). Once the diesel start to gel you will need additives for your diesel or winterized diesel (additives are already included). On the other hand, K1 Kerosene (also known as #1 Diesel or #1 Fuel Oil) does not start to gel until the ambient temperature is around -40° F (-40°C). * In general, number #2 Fuel (diesel) will develop significant cold flow problems in cold weather without additives.

Unplug the heater and open up the lid. If the fan does not spin, it is likely that the end pump cover is too tight. Do not use a power driver to tighten the 6 screws holding the rotor in. Loosen the screws, and inspect the rotor and blades. The blades should not have any marks on them, and should sit just a bit inside the rotor, not being flush on the outside or at the top where the edge of the blade and the edge of the rotor meet. The gap between the top of the rotor and pump body should only be big enough to slide a dollar bill in the gap. Reinstall the end pump cover and 6 screws so that they are only hand tightened. The fan should spin freely now, and the heater should work. Replace the rotor if it is worn or broken.

If no spark is present at the Spark Plug, there is an insufficient ground. Check that the wires between the spark plug and the ignitor are securely attached and that ground wire is securely attached to the body of the heater. If the spark plug is corroded or cracked, replace it. Re-gap the Spark Plug to 0.140 inches (3.5mm). Have an Authorized Service Center test for a faulty ignitor (Transformer). Parts are available through any Authorized Service Center or by contacting Pinnacle directly.

Check and adjust the pump Pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications listed in the User’s Manual. A dirty fuel filter or nozzle can obstruct the flow of fuel to the spark plug. Refer to the User’s Manual for instructions on cleaning these components. An air leak will impede the flow of fuel to the burner head. Inspect the End Filter Cover for cracks and, if found, replace it. A disconnected or ruptured Air Line will impede the flow of fuel to the burner head. Check that the Air Line is securely attached and inspect it for cracks. Replace this part if necessary.

This is common, if several unsuccessful attempts at lighting the heater were made. It will soon dissipate and be burnt off.

First check the air pressure gauge. Be sure the air pressure is set to the required pressure. If this doesn’t work, you may have a fuel blockage or air leak. Check the fuel filter and nozzle for blockage, and the end filter cover for cracks. Be sure all screws are snug and tight.

Loosening the two screws (in the Pump Body, above and below rotor) will allow you to adjust how the rotor sits in the Pump Body (and the gap between the top of the rotor and the inside of the pump body). Fold a dollar bill in half, and place it between the rotor and the pump body, then tighten the two screws so that the dollar bill barely slides between the top of the rotor and pump body.

Never use this heater for indoor residential applications! This heater is certified for outdoor use only, indoor use only with adequate ventilation as prescribed in the User’s Manual. It is intended for temporary heating of buildings under construction, alteration, or repair.

One likely cause is insufficient voltage either at the electrical outlet or at the end of the extension cord. Refer to the User’s Manual for Proper Cord Sizing. Inspect the Fuse on the PCB and, if defective, replace with a new one. The motor or capacitor may be faulty and need to be replaced. Replace broken or misshapen Rotor or Blades. Adjust the gap between the Pump Body and the Rotor (See How do I adjust the rotor? above). Adjust the set point on the thermostat to a higher setting. The Thermal Limit Switch may be defective and need to be replaced. Inspect and tighten all electrical connections between the PCB and the Motor. Check that the Fan Blade can spin freely within the shell. Remove any obstruction and replace the blade if damaged.

Parts can be ordered by contacting us at 800-641-6996 or filing out a form on the “Parts” tab under “Customer-Service”